Pattern Cutting and Size Grading

Pattern Cutting is the the first step in the sample making stage. We use your detailed tech packs plus design specs to draft and then cut your patterns. Or if you shipped clothing to us instead, we use these samples as the reference templates to work from. This is done for one size only at first to test fit.

There are varying ways that patterns can be created. Some patterns are made by drawing the blueprints on specially crafted thin tissue-like paper or a thick stock paper. There are also software that can be used to create your patterns but these are usually offered via our medium-scale and large-scale facilities.

Patterns themselves are the shape templates that’s used to cut the fabric into shapes for the panels of each garment. We then sew these panels of fabric into your clothing. Here is a good example of how that looks:

What is Pattern or Size Grading?

Once you approve your initial samples as correct in the one size, we now need to draft and cut the patterns for all of your other sizes. Making additional changes to the samples may be required so it is best to wait until one sample size is perfected before grading begins. We use certain globally recognised standards known as “Grading Rules” to determine how many centimetres to go up or down for each seam as we grade all the other sizes from Small, to Medium, Large, and onward in both directions.

We Provide Size Grading for free!

Some of our clients have their own preferences when it comes to grading rules. In this case, you can simply attach a Size Chart for us as part of your tech packs. Most start-up clients find size charts from the world’s big brands and download them or screenshot them from their websites. This shows us how many centimetres that particular brand goes up and down by in a few main garment areas then we grade every other area accordingly.

Keep in mind that grading rules can change from country to country, and there is no single universal chart that everyone follows. That’s why we recommend using one from a clothing line which you already like the fit of their clothing.

No matter how many patterns and samples you need, we will take care of this entire process and ensure a high standard of quality control is met.

If you’d like to work with CMA Bali’s patter cutting services, please send us an enquiry – click here.